| TRAVELING IN BAJA |
1. What documents do I need?
As of June, 2009, all travellers to Mexico are required to have a valid passport
for entry back to the United States. Since there is no passport requirement to
enter Mexico, travelers who don't have a passport, or forget to bring it, can find
themselves in an uncomfortable position when trying to go home.
2. Do I need Mexican insurance?
While Mexican law does not require drivers to have automobile insurance, anyone,
and particularly foreigners, who drive without it are putting themselves at great
risk. Travelers should purchase supplemental Mexican insurance in addition to
their US insurance before crossing the border. There are numerous outlets near
each border crossing, and generally the costs and provisions are comparable. It is
a good idea to include full comprehensive coverage as well as legal representation in
the policy. Short term policies are available by the day or week, and if your trip
will be more than a couple of weeks, or additional trips are anticipated, it is usually
worth buying a full year policy. The laws of Mexico are very different from those
in the US. The fundamental difference is that if you have an accident you are
considered guilty until proven innocent. Without insurance and legal representation
you can end up in jail for a very minor incident that was not even your fault. With
that in mind, the rates for full coverage are well worth paying. Don't forget to get
coverage for any additional person who may be driving the vehicle. It requires a
special endorsement and usually another fee. And never, ever let a Mexican drive
your car. Not only does the insurance not cover them, if they are stopped, which
they likely will be if seen driving a car with a US plate, the vehicle can be
impounded and recovering it will not be an easy process. There are many companies
offering auto insurance for visitors to Mexico. Most offer similar rates and
coverage, but a little shopping can be profitable. The whole thing can be done
online pretty painlessly. For full coverage, select a plan that includes legal
representation should you need it.
3. Gas availability, quality and price
On my first driving trip to Mexico in 1985, I got bad gas several times. And I'm
not talking about the effects of the tacos and frijoles. In those years I learned
not to drive down here without an add-on fuel filter that would remove moisture and
other contaminants. Today in Baja it's quite different. Gas stations are available
all along the transpeninsular highway and the gas quality is pretty dependable. I
have not had a bad experience with gas in the last several years, (other than the
aforementioned indulgences). While there is only one gas company, the government
owned PEMEX, the monopoly has been an advantage. The standards are high, the
price is stable at about $2.50/gallon US, and the addition of many new locations
has taken some of the adventure out of travel south of the border. The main
problem with buying gas is that you'll probably be overcharged if you don't pay
attention. If you do pay attention, you'll still be overcharged, but you can avoid
paying it. Follow these suggestions and you'll get your money's worth: make sure
the pump meter reads $0.00 when they start pumping, (or you'll pay for the last
person's gas, too), and pay in pesos or make sure you know the exchange rate and
can calculate your change. Most of the gas stations post the rate where you can see
it. If they don't, you may want to ask before you pump. I paid once with a $100
bill in a remote location and ended up losing about $14 in change because they
refused to give the rate set by the government and I didn't have pesos. But always
know what your change should be, whether pesos or dollars, and when shorted,
request the necessary adjustment. You'll be met with a smile, no apology, and about
half of the balance you should get. Ask again, you'll get another smile and the rest
of it.
4. Military check points
If you drive in Baja you will encounter, from time to time, checkpoints set up by
the Mexican Army. Many tourists are apprehensive or at least offended at having
to stop, sometimes waiting in line longer than they would like to. There's not much
to worry about if you're not carrying drugs, firearms or ammo. If you are, you
could be in serious trouble. Many times, when recognized as a US tourist, I get
waved through without an inspection. About as often, I'm asked to step out of the
truck, open the back, and let the guys tap around with their screwdrivers and look
through the glovebox. One word of caution, if you are asked to step out and let
them in, don't leave a phone, iPod, wallet, or other valuables where they can be
grabbed and stuck in a pocket. I've heard of more than one incident where those
things disappeared. But of course, you've got more common sense than to do that
even north of the border. There are a number of fixed places where you can
expect to find a checkpoint any time you go by. But there are also random
checkpoints, even in remote areas on dirt roads. They often catch me by surprise
where I would least expect them. The other night, cruising along the
Transpeninsular, I was flagged down by a soldier in a dark uniform with only a very
weak flashlight. After nearly knocking him off the road, hitting a rubber cone and
screeching the tires stopping, I realized it was a checkpoint with the usual dozen or
more soldiers with their M16's and screwdrivers. I very politely suggested they
get a little more light on the subject.
5. What is a 'Sentri Pass'?
If you cross the border more than 8 or 10 times a year, this could be for you. A
Sentri Pass allows you to by-pass the main lanes entering the US and use lanes
reserved for "trusted travelers" approved by the Border Patrol. Usually this will
save an hour or more in line, sometimes several hours. The approval process is now
very simple and quick. Unlike when I got mine, application can be made online and
be completed within a couple of weeks. I waited 6 months just to get an
appointment. The down side to the improved application system is that a lot of
people are doing it, and even as they add lanes, they are slowing down. Usually the
wait in the Sentri line is less than 20 minutes, but on a recent holiday weekend I
spent close to an hour waiting. The alternative, however, would have been 3-4 hours
in the untrustworthy lane. One thing to keep in mind is that your car needs to be
registered, too, and only other passengers holding a Sentri Pass can accompany you
through these lanes. If you have passengers who don't carry a Sentri Pass, they can
be off-loaded at the pedestrian crossing and picked up on the other side.
6. What are the roads like?
The roads in Baja are very interesting. There are very few paved roads, with the
primary one being the Transpeninsular Highway that goes from the US border to
Cabo. The surface of this road is currently in pretty good shape. I drove the full
length of it in October. There are places where it is very windy and narrow, other
places where it is straight as an arrow for mile after mile. Leave the main highway
and, with very few exceptions, you'll be in the dirt. The highway from TJ to
Ensenada is a four-lane toll road and is the best Baja has to offer. Plans for a mega
seaport in Colonet include extending that road another 120 miles, but no one is
holding their breath on that one. Night travel has been discouraged in Baja, but in
my experience the greatest danger is the errant horse or cow soaking up a little
heat from the pavement during the dark hours. The highway is mostly pretty well
marked with lines and signs and easy to drive at night.
7. What about visas?
Technically, a traveler's visa is required for anyone coming to Baja for more than
72 hours or traveling south of Ensenada. Or TJ. Depends on who you ask.
Practically, no one gets them unless they're going south of Guerrero Negro, where
you will be stopped and asked for one. A visa costs about $20 US at the border,
and can be good for up to 180 days depending on the whim of the issuing authority.
Personally, I have an FM-3, which is a multi-entry visa and is good for a year.
These are expensive and require a painful process each year, but they are required
in order to work here legally. I wouldn't recommend it for infrequent visitors. I
have never been asked for my visa anywhere except in Guerrero Negro.
8. Some emergency phone numbers.
For the Emergency Response Hotline, (equivalent to 911 in the USA), dial 066. For
the Tourist Assistance Hotline, dial 078. Remember to carry the number of your
Mexican auto insurance company.
BACK TO TOP
As of June, 2009, all travellers to Mexico are required to have a valid passport
for entry back to the United States. Since there is no passport requirement to
enter Mexico, travelers who don't have a passport, or forget to bring it, can find
themselves in an uncomfortable position when trying to go home.
2. Do I need Mexican insurance?
While Mexican law does not require drivers to have automobile insurance, anyone,
and particularly foreigners, who drive without it are putting themselves at great
risk. Travelers should purchase supplemental Mexican insurance in addition to
their US insurance before crossing the border. There are numerous outlets near
each border crossing, and generally the costs and provisions are comparable. It is
a good idea to include full comprehensive coverage as well as legal representation in
the policy. Short term policies are available by the day or week, and if your trip
will be more than a couple of weeks, or additional trips are anticipated, it is usually
worth buying a full year policy. The laws of Mexico are very different from those
in the US. The fundamental difference is that if you have an accident you are
considered guilty until proven innocent. Without insurance and legal representation
you can end up in jail for a very minor incident that was not even your fault. With
that in mind, the rates for full coverage are well worth paying. Don't forget to get
coverage for any additional person who may be driving the vehicle. It requires a
special endorsement and usually another fee. And never, ever let a Mexican drive
your car. Not only does the insurance not cover them, if they are stopped, which
they likely will be if seen driving a car with a US plate, the vehicle can be
impounded and recovering it will not be an easy process. There are many companies
offering auto insurance for visitors to Mexico. Most offer similar rates and
coverage, but a little shopping can be profitable. The whole thing can be done
online pretty painlessly. For full coverage, select a plan that includes legal
representation should you need it.
3. Gas availability, quality and price
On my first driving trip to Mexico in 1985, I got bad gas several times. And I'm
not talking about the effects of the tacos and frijoles. In those years I learned
not to drive down here without an add-on fuel filter that would remove moisture and
other contaminants. Today in Baja it's quite different. Gas stations are available
all along the transpeninsular highway and the gas quality is pretty dependable. I
have not had a bad experience with gas in the last several years, (other than the
aforementioned indulgences). While there is only one gas company, the government
owned PEMEX, the monopoly has been an advantage. The standards are high, the
price is stable at about $2.50/gallon US, and the addition of many new locations
has taken some of the adventure out of travel south of the border. The main
problem with buying gas is that you'll probably be overcharged if you don't pay
attention. If you do pay attention, you'll still be overcharged, but you can avoid
paying it. Follow these suggestions and you'll get your money's worth: make sure
the pump meter reads $0.00 when they start pumping, (or you'll pay for the last
person's gas, too), and pay in pesos or make sure you know the exchange rate and
can calculate your change. Most of the gas stations post the rate where you can see
it. If they don't, you may want to ask before you pump. I paid once with a $100
bill in a remote location and ended up losing about $14 in change because they
refused to give the rate set by the government and I didn't have pesos. But always
know what your change should be, whether pesos or dollars, and when shorted,
request the necessary adjustment. You'll be met with a smile, no apology, and about
half of the balance you should get. Ask again, you'll get another smile and the rest
of it.
4. Military check points
If you drive in Baja you will encounter, from time to time, checkpoints set up by
the Mexican Army. Many tourists are apprehensive or at least offended at having
to stop, sometimes waiting in line longer than they would like to. There's not much
to worry about if you're not carrying drugs, firearms or ammo. If you are, you
could be in serious trouble. Many times, when recognized as a US tourist, I get
waved through without an inspection. About as often, I'm asked to step out of the
truck, open the back, and let the guys tap around with their screwdrivers and look
through the glovebox. One word of caution, if you are asked to step out and let
them in, don't leave a phone, iPod, wallet, or other valuables where they can be
grabbed and stuck in a pocket. I've heard of more than one incident where those
things disappeared. But of course, you've got more common sense than to do that
even north of the border. There are a number of fixed places where you can
expect to find a checkpoint any time you go by. But there are also random
checkpoints, even in remote areas on dirt roads. They often catch me by surprise
where I would least expect them. The other night, cruising along the
Transpeninsular, I was flagged down by a soldier in a dark uniform with only a very
weak flashlight. After nearly knocking him off the road, hitting a rubber cone and
screeching the tires stopping, I realized it was a checkpoint with the usual dozen or
more soldiers with their M16's and screwdrivers. I very politely suggested they
get a little more light on the subject.
5. What is a 'Sentri Pass'?
If you cross the border more than 8 or 10 times a year, this could be for you. A
Sentri Pass allows you to by-pass the main lanes entering the US and use lanes
reserved for "trusted travelers" approved by the Border Patrol. Usually this will
save an hour or more in line, sometimes several hours. The approval process is now
very simple and quick. Unlike when I got mine, application can be made online and
be completed within a couple of weeks. I waited 6 months just to get an
appointment. The down side to the improved application system is that a lot of
people are doing it, and even as they add lanes, they are slowing down. Usually the
wait in the Sentri line is less than 20 minutes, but on a recent holiday weekend I
spent close to an hour waiting. The alternative, however, would have been 3-4 hours
in the untrustworthy lane. One thing to keep in mind is that your car needs to be
registered, too, and only other passengers holding a Sentri Pass can accompany you
through these lanes. If you have passengers who don't carry a Sentri Pass, they can
be off-loaded at the pedestrian crossing and picked up on the other side.
6. What are the roads like?
The roads in Baja are very interesting. There are very few paved roads, with the
primary one being the Transpeninsular Highway that goes from the US border to
Cabo. The surface of this road is currently in pretty good shape. I drove the full
length of it in October. There are places where it is very windy and narrow, other
places where it is straight as an arrow for mile after mile. Leave the main highway
and, with very few exceptions, you'll be in the dirt. The highway from TJ to
Ensenada is a four-lane toll road and is the best Baja has to offer. Plans for a mega
seaport in Colonet include extending that road another 120 miles, but no one is
holding their breath on that one. Night travel has been discouraged in Baja, but in
my experience the greatest danger is the errant horse or cow soaking up a little
heat from the pavement during the dark hours. The highway is mostly pretty well
marked with lines and signs and easy to drive at night.
7. What about visas?
Technically, a traveler's visa is required for anyone coming to Baja for more than
72 hours or traveling south of Ensenada. Or TJ. Depends on who you ask.
Practically, no one gets them unless they're going south of Guerrero Negro, where
you will be stopped and asked for one. A visa costs about $20 US at the border,
and can be good for up to 180 days depending on the whim of the issuing authority.
Personally, I have an FM-3, which is a multi-entry visa and is good for a year.
These are expensive and require a painful process each year, but they are required
in order to work here legally. I wouldn't recommend it for infrequent visitors. I
have never been asked for my visa anywhere except in Guerrero Negro.
8. Some emergency phone numbers.
For the Emergency Response Hotline, (equivalent to 911 in the USA), dial 066. For
the Tourist Assistance Hotline, dial 078. Remember to carry the number of your
Mexican auto insurance company.
BACK TO TOP
Scroll down for answers to the following questions: 1. What documents do I need?
2. Do I need Mexican insurance? 3. Gas availability, quality and price 4. Military
check points 5. What is a 'Sentri Pass'? 6. What are the roads like? 7. What
about visas? 8. Emergency numbers
2. Do I need Mexican insurance? 3. Gas availability, quality and price 4. Military
check points 5. What is a 'Sentri Pass'? 6. What are the roads like? 7. What
about visas? 8. Emergency numbers
